Salame Screenshot 2016 04 18 at 11.03.26

Ode to Salame

It’s supposed to be the arsehole of Tel Aviv, Salame Street, running east-west at its southern tip, but it always does me darn good.

I

t’s supposed to be the arsehole of Tel Aviv, Salame Street, running east-west at its southern tip, but it always does me darn good. I can’t really think why, because it’s not pretty. It’s noisy and commercial. Maybe it’s the time of day: In the late afternoon it takes on pink, which is highly improbable for such a hard-ass street. Maybe it’s because it’s cheap: Around there things generally cost 20% less than you’d find them elsewhere.

It’s the unofficial national center for motorbike showrooms. There are whorehouses galore too. You have to walk a fair way into town to come close to any sort of franchised eatery; the only brand names are those on the motorbikes (Yamaha, Suzuki, etc.), the banks (Discount, Leumi) and the gas station (Paz).

It’s lively without being frenetic, competitive without being cut-throat ⁠— perhaps because both Israelis and foreign workers feel equally at home here; it’s the only street in Israel where I’ve seen groups of half a dozen or so Africans sitting around doing nothing in an almost threatening way. Excepting them however, people on this street are about their business; there’s little or no poza as it’s called, self-consciously showing off how hip or beautiful one is.

I was there today and picked up some cockpit spray for my car for NIS 10, about $2.10. Okay, that’s probably what ArmorAll costs in the US, but for swindly Israel that’s cheap.

At the corner of Salame and Herzl there’s a bit of a hill, among the steepest in Tel Aviv. The whole area, like most of town, is all on a grid, and yet it’s higglety-pigglety.

It sort of loses its diesel charm west of Herzl. I wonder when one of the new national coffee chains, such as Hillel or Aroma, will take the plunge and open something here. Aroma did well opening on the semi-grungy Yehuda Halevi, but that’s in actuality only about 30 seconds away from leafy Rothschild, so you get to feel like you are hanging on the edge of Good Things looking south. Towards such roughness as Salame.

The Trail

Friday, June 12th, 2026

Francesco Parrino is getting the Benny and Björn spirit of things here with his piano cover of Super Trouper, probably my favorite ABBA song ⁠— though like with other covers of his I’ve listened to, I enjoy the first half of the track more than the second.

Once I know a piece well enough I go a-hunting for interesting versions of it. This is all I could find of my current most-played piece: Brahms’s 4th Symphony. It’s a synth version of the first movement only, and compared to the one I’m used to ⁠— Carlos Kleiber conducting the Wiener Philharmoniker on Deustche Gramophon ⁠— a bit plodding.

Wednesday, June 10th, 2026

You never know who is going to turn out to be an antisemitic heel. The neatest is Nassim Nicholas Taleb, because if anything exemplifies his bestselling concept of antifragility, it’s his detested Israel!